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        <title>Real Estate Blog</title>
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            <guid>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/plumbing-leaks-8-smart-tips-to-stop-them.html</guid>
            <link>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/plumbing-leaks-8-smart-tips-to-stop-them.html</link>
            <author>info@alexanderchandler.com (Alexander Chandler)</author>
            <title>Plumbing Leaks:  8 Smart Tips to Stop Them</title>
            <description> <![CDATA[ 
 Plumbing Leaks: 8 Smart Tips to Stop Them


By: Joe Bousquin 


Published: November 12, 2010 


 Plumbing leaks can be prevented with a few simple measures. Plus, learn what to do when leaks occur. 




1. Locate your home’s main water shut-off valve. If there’s ever a plumbing leak, you can go straight there and quickly turn off the water to the entire house.2. Install shut-off valves at individual appliances and fixtures. That allows you to keep water flowing in other areas of the house while making site-specific repairs. Expect to pay $4 to $10 for each valve; expect to pay $50 to $75/hour for professional installation.3. Install a flow sensor that detects plumbing leaks and automatically shuts off water to the entire house or a specific appliance. You’ll pay approximately $75 for this device, plus installation charges of $150.4. Remove hoses from outdoor spigots in winter to prevent frozen water from cracking the pipes and causing plumbing leaks, or worse, a flood. Install frost-free hose bibs at exerior spigots.5. Add pipe insulation to the plumbing in cold parts of your house—such as garages, basements, and crawl spaces—to avoid frozen pipes (and to shorten the wait for hot water). Pipe insulation tubes cost as little as 35 cents per foot.6. Don’t use exposed pipes as hanger rods for laundry or to store clothes. Doing so can loosen joints and fasteners and lead to plumbing leaks.7. Don’t overload vanities and sink cabinets. When you crowd stuff into your cabinets, you can jostle water supply pipes and drains, loosening connections and causing plumbing leaks. If drips occur, they’re tough to spot amid piles of cleaners and spare TP.8. Fix problems quickly. Even small leaks can make pipes corrode more quickly, and cause significant water damage or mold. Take the time to periodically scout for signs of leaks and drips. 


Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®." www.HouseLogic.com  


 


 


 


 


 




 


 
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            <pubDate>Mon, 20 May 2013 14:16:21 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/the-easy-fun-way-to-spring-clean-your-deck-or-patio.html</guid>
            <link>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/the-easy-fun-way-to-spring-clean-your-deck-or-patio.html</link>
            <author>info@alexanderchandler.com (Alexander Chandler)</author>
            <title>The Easy, Fun Way to Spring Clean Your Deck or Patio</title>
            <description> <![CDATA[ 
The Easy, Fun Way to Spring Clean Your Deck or Patio


By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon 


Published: March 28, 2012 




The spring cleaning chore with the most fun potential is prepping your deck or patio for spring. Here’s how to do it with a touch of fun. 


Water toy #1: A pressure washer 


If you don’t have a pressure washer in your tool shed, you’re missing out. Spring is a good time to add one to your arsenal of lean, green cleaning machines. They blast away dirt mostly without harsh chemicals, which is good for the planet and your deck and patio plants.   


Plus, they’ve come down in price, and are easier to manage than they used to be, making pressure washing your deck and patio much more fun and much less hassle.  


A 1,500 to 2,000 PSI machine, gas or electric ($90-$300), will take care of most outdoor spring cleaning chores — decks, patio furniture, umbrellas, flagstone.  


Most models have a detergent chamber or two, so you can add a little earth-friendly soap if you need more cleaning macho. 


You also can rent one for $40-$75 a day.  


Tip: Don’t rent one heavier than you can handle. That will take all the fun out of it. It’s tempting to go for power, but your deck and patio shouldn’t need the heavy hitter unless you’ve become an expert at deferred maintenance. 


Once you start playing with a power washer, you might find yourself looking for more to clean, like your siding.   


Water toy #2: Standard garden hose 


If you’re not the power washer sort (maybe you don’t like the noise), arm yourself with a hose. It’ll still be fun. Just pretend you’re a kid again and launch an attack on an unsuspecting family member or neighbor. Before you know it, everything will have a good soaking.  


Now that you’ve got your water tool of choice, here are some tips to make the job go easier: 


Patio umbrella: When you open your patio umbrella for the first time in spring, don’t be surprised to see spiders and moth cocoons. Blast them off with your garden hose. Scrub fabric with a gentle water-and-dish-detergent mixture to avoid stripping the umbrella’s water-resistant coating. When you place the umbrella back into its stand, don’t forget to tighten stand screws. 


Outdoor furniture: Heloise, our favorite cleaning tipster, says a scrubbing solution of ¾ cup beach and 1 tablespoon of laundry detergent mixed into 1 gallon of warm water will brighten dingy resin lawn chairs. Vacuum wicker furniture with an upholstery attachment.  


Patio pavers: Scrub with a bleach solution (1 part bleach, 10 parts water), which will get rid of stains. More stubborn stains may require treatment with muriatic acid, which is best left to professionals. To prevent future stains, lay outdoor mats on stain-prone areas, like under the grill or patio table.  


Grills: The best time to clean baked on gunk is to scrub when the grill is still warm — not hot! — which is nature’s way of softening grease and crunchies. Use a wire brush with scraper to strip off charred food. Or, soak grates in soapy water for 30 minutes, then scour with steel wool. Don’t forget to clean drip pans and ash collectors, too. To keep grills clean, spray on cooking oil before lighting, which keeps food from sticking and makes cleanup faster.  


Another tip: Cut an onion in half and rub it on a warm grill either before or after you grill to keep the grill clean. 


Water features: Scrub scum from your birdbaths and fountains. Mix a 1:10 bleach:water solution to kill algae, but make sure you rinse thoroughly until the water stops foaming. Use a water wiggler to keep water moving and discourage breeding mosquitoes.  


Have fun and be sure to get a little wet! 


 


Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®." www.HouseLogic.com  


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 




 


 
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            <pubDate>Fri, 17 May 2013 16:12:39 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/clearing-clogged-drains-and-preventing-future-clogs.html</guid>
            <link>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/clearing-clogged-drains-and-preventing-future-clogs.html</link>
            <author>info@alexanderchandler.com (Alexander Chandler)</author>
            <title>Clearing Clogged Drains and Preventing Future Clogs</title>
            <description> <![CDATA[ 
Clearing Clogged Drains and Preventing Future ClogsBy: Joe Bousquin 


Published: November 18, 2010 




Don’t use chemicals to clear clogged drains. Use a plumber’s snake and follow these tips on preventing clogged drains. 


Avoid chemical drain-clearing products


You can buy chemicals to clear clogged drains, but these products sometimes do more harm than good. They can actually erode cast-iron drainpipes.   And because they typically don’t remove the entire clog, the problem is likely to recur, causing you to use the chemicals repeatedly. The caustic action of chemicals may eventually wear away the insides of pipes, causing leaks.Better to hire a plumber to snake the drain (usually $85 to $325) and completely remove the chunk of hair or grease that’s plugging the line.Better still (and cheaper!), pick up a manually operated augur, or snake, of your own, for about $15 at the hardware store. Or, rent an electric snake for about $30 for a half day, and try clearing the clogged drain yourself. 


Prevent clogged drains


Clogged drains aren’t just nuisances. Backed-up water puts added pressure on wastepipes, stressing them and shortening their lifespan. To avoid clogged drains: 




Keep food scraps out of kitchen drains. Scrape food into the trash before doing dishes—even if you have a disposal—and never put liquid grease down the drain; pour it into a sealable container to put in the garbage after it cools.






Keep hair out of bathroom drains. Install screens over drains in showers and tubs, and pull out what hair you can every few weeks to prevent buildups.






Keep anything but sewage and TP out of toilets. 




Keep your sewer lines or septic tank clear


If you have municipal sewers, hire a plumber to snake your main sewage cleanout every few years. This will cost $135 to $600, and will remove tree roots that inevitably work their way into these pipes—leading to messy sewage backups.If you have a septic system, get the tank pumped out every three to five years for $75 to $350; it'll be more for larger tanks.A former staff writer for the Wall Street Journal, Joe Bousquin writes about housing, construction, and home improvement. The galvanized steel water pipes in his 1930 home in Sacramento, Calif., have all been replaced with copper. 


 


Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®." www.HouseLogic.com  


 


 


 


 


 




 


 
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            <pubDate>Mon, 13 May 2013 10:15:15 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/12-causes-and-cures-for-common-home-maintenance-problems.html</guid>
            <link>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/12-causes-and-cures-for-common-home-maintenance-problems.html</link>
            <author>info@alexanderchandler.com (Alexander Chandler)</author>
            <title>12 Causes and Cures for Common Home Maintenance Problems</title>
            <description> <![CDATA[ 
12 Causes and Cures for Common Home Maintenance Problems


By: Jeanne Huber 


Published: April 8, 2010 




Many sensory clues give you early warning of home maintenance problems—if you can decode the symptoms. 


1. Peeling exterior paint 


Cause: Moisture is probably getting underneath the paint, perhaps from a leaking gutter overhead or from a steamy bathroom on the other side of the wall.Cure: If you catch the problem right away, you might just need to address the moisture issue and then scrape off the loose paint, prime bare spots, and repaint that wall, for a total of a few hundred to a couple thousand dollars. Delay too long and the siding might rot. Patching and repainting the whole house might cost $10,000. To prevent a chronically steamy bathroom, consider installing a new ventilation fan with a humidity-sensing switch that automatically exhausts moisture-laden air. Cost is about $250. 


2. Flickering lights 


Cause: If only a single bulb flickers, it might be loose in its socket or in need of replacement. If lights always dim when the refrigerator or other appliance turns on, the circuit might be overloaded. If groups of lights flicker, connections at the electrical panel or elsewhere might be loose, causing power to arc—or jump—over the gaps. Arcing is a serious problem; it starts fires.Cure: Anyone can tighten a bulb. Handy homeowners can shut off circuits and tighten loose connections within switch boxes. If you’re not comfortable doing that, or if you suspect an overloaded circuit or loose connection at the panel box, call in a licensed electrician. You’ll pay $150 to $250 for a new circuit, and $500 to $700 for a new electrical panel--way less than what you’d spend to recover from a fire. 


3. Rustling in a wall 


Cause: Sure, termites usually signal their presence by building pencil-thick mud tubes up from the ground or by swarming from pinholes in floors or walls. But did you know it’s also possible to detect them by sound? Tap on a wall and then press an ear against it. See if you hear rustling that matches recordings of Formosan or other termites. A sound like crinkling cellophane could mean carpenter ants.Cure: Call a pest-control professional. Cost is $65 to $100 for an inspection. 


4. Loud knocking 


Cause: If the knocking occurs when you turn off water, you have “water hammer,” caused when fast-moving water comes to a sudden stop and there is no air chamber (a short, specially designed piece of pipe) to cushion the shock wave. If knocking occurs when your furnace switches on or off, metal ducts are expanding or contracting as temperature changes.Cure: If water pipes are the issue and there is an air chamber near the faucet, it may be filled with water and needs to be drained. You might be able to do this yourself. If you’re not confident of tackling that or if there is no chamber, call a plumber ($65 an hour) to add one. Those snapping ducts? Just get used to them. 


5. A toilet tank that refills all on its own 


Cause: Worn interior parts may be causing water to trickle through the toilet constantly, causing the water level in the tank to lower and eventually triggering the refill mechanism. A leaky toilet potentially wastes 1,500 gallons a month.Cure: Untangle or loosen the chain—it may be too tight and preventing the flapper from seating fully, letting water leak out the flush valve. Or, try bending the tube connected to the float ball. If those don’t work, replace the valve and flapper inside the toilet tank (under $25 if you do it yourself, and a little more if you upgrade to a water-saving dual-flush valve). 


6. Creaks and groans 


Cause: All houses creak and groan a little as parts expand and contract with temperature fluctuations and with changes in levels of humidity.Cure: None--it's normal for house to make a few snaps and pops. But don't ignore really loud groans when there's been an unusual amount of snow or rain, especially if your house has a flat roof. There may be an excessive or even dangerous amount of weight on your roof. If you suspect that may be the case, be prudent: Get everyone out of the house and call in a professional to check the roof. 


7. Musty odors 


Cause: Mildew, a fungus, is growing because indoor air is humid enough to allow condensation to form on cold surfaces. Basements are favorite haunts for mildew.Cure: Keep surfaces dry by one or more strategies: increase air movement with a $20 fan, keep relative humidity below 50% in summer or 40% in winter with a $175 dehumidifier, or make surfaces warmer by adding insulation. 


8. Rotten-egg smell when you run water 


Cause: Bacteria that produce hydrogen sulfide gas (the scientific name for “rotten egg smell”) are in your plumbing, or there is a problem with your water heater. Fill a glass with hot water, step away from the sink, and take a whiff; if you detect no sulfur smell, they’re in the drain.Cure: Disinfect the drain by pouring in a $1 bottle of 3% hydrogen peroxide solution, sold at drug stores. A sulfur smell in only hot water points to the water heater as the problem; call a plumber to disinfect the system or replace the tank’s magnesium anode. If hot and cold water both smell, call your water supplier (or health department if you have a well). 


9. Strange-tasting tap water  


Cause: Mineral content of drinking water varies, so taste does too. But if the water tastes metallic, iron or copper may be leaching from pipes. If you taste chlorine, your water supplier may have overdosed on disinfectant, or a correct level could be interacting with organic material within your plumbing system.Cure: If chlorine seems high at all taps, or if you taste metals, call your water supplier or have your well water tested. If only one tap has water with high chlorine or if the taste goes away after you run water for a few minutes, flush your system or call a plumber.An under-the-counter water purifier with a top-quality activated carbon filter will remove heavy metals, bacteria, and other contaminants. In addition, it removes odors and bad tastes. Expect to pay $150 to $200 for a purifier with a replaceable cartridge. 


10. Sour milk 


Cause: With today’s hyper-pasteurized dairy products, milk doesn’t sour easily. So if it or other refrigerated food spoils unusually fast, the temperature in your refrigerator could be too high.Cure: Get an $8 refrigerator thermometer and adjust the control so on each shelf stays below 40 degrees. If you can’t achieve this, consider buying a new Energy Star-rated refrigerator. Fridges are pricey, $450 to $2,000 or more, but you’ll save energy as well as food and might qualify for rebates. 


11. Trembling floors 


Cause: If items on tables and shelve jiggle and shimmy when you walk past, or if your floor feels like it gives under your weight, the floor joists might not be sturdy enough or past remodeling might have removed a support wall.Cure: Have a structural engineer or experienced contractor see whether you can add more joists, bolster existing ones with an additional layer of plywood subflooring, or add a post to support the floor better. You’ll pay up to $500 for a structural engineer to evaluate your problem. 


12. Mysterious breezes 


Cause: If a ground-floor room seems drafty, air may be seeping in along the foundation or through an improperly sealed window or door. A drafty attic can make things worse, as warm air currents will rise naturally and exit through any gaps in the attic, pulling colder air in through lower-level cracks. Cure: Starting in the attic and working your way down, seal all gaps.  

Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®." www.HouseLogic.com

 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 




 


 
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            <pubDate>Mon, 06 May 2013 13:42:36 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/5-deck-makeover-projects-under-300.html</guid>
            <link>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/5-deck-makeover-projects-under-300.html</link>
            <author>info@alexanderchandler.com (Alexander Chandler)</author>
            <title>5 Deck Makeover Projects Under $300</title>
            <description> <![CDATA[ 
5 Deck Makeover Projects Under $300


By: John Riha 


Published: July 2, 2012 




Want to upgrade your deck but watching your budget? Here are 5 easy deck makeover ideas, many well under $300. 


You won’t have to plug them in or wire anything, either. Their solar-charged batteries are renewed every day, and the lights are built to withstand all kinds of weather.Types and cost: 




Paper lanterns (made from synthetic, weatherproof nylon; $20-$30) are made for hanging and come in all sorts of fun shapes, sizes, and colors.






Carriage lights can be fixed on top of a pillar or railing newel post. $45-$150.






Solar illuminated replicas of old-fashioned mason jars can be set on any flat surface, about $35.






Rope lights have small LED bulbs inside a flexible cord. A 25-foot-long rope with solar charger and stand is $25.




What else: Suspend lanterns from overhead trellises, railings, and nearby trees, where they’ll shed a soft, colorful glow. Wind rope lights around rafters and railings. 


2. Install a stone landing at the foot of your deck stairs3. Put up a privacy screen4. Paint a faux floor rug on your decking5. Wash and refinish your wood decking 


2. Install a stone landing at the foot of your deck stairs


Dress up the transition from your deck to your yard with a little hardscaping -- a stone landing at the bottom of your deck stairs. Stones are a natural compliment to wood decks, and they’ll help prevent mud from forming where there’s heavy foot traffic.Cost: Flagstone is priced by the pound; you’ll spend $60-$100 for enough stone for a 3-by-4-foot landing.How-to: Techniques for installing a landing are the same as putting in a patio, although you’ll have to temporarily support your existing stairway while you work around — and under — it.What else: You should be able to add a landing in less than a day. It’ll get done faster if you hire a pro, but it’ll cost you another $150-$200 in labor. 


3. Put up a privacy screen


Whether you’re relaxing alone au naturel or entertaining friends, a little home privacy is always welcome. You can add some vertical supports and fill in a variety of cool screening materials that are as nice for your neighbors to look at as they are for you.Types and costs: 




Bamboo fencing comes in a 6-by-16-foot roll for $20-$25.






Lattice panels are either wood or plastic, $15-$30 for a 4-by-8-foot panel.






Grow climbing plants on a trellis ($20-$100) to create a living privacy screen. Plant climbing vines in tall containers ($40-$120) to raise them above the deck surface and give them a head start filling in your screen.






Outdoor fabric resists moisture and fading; $12-$120 per yard. You’ll pay another $20 to have a seamstress cut and hem a 3-by-5-foot panel.




How-to: Your privacy screen should integrate with your deck; make the framework using the same basic materials as your deck railing and structure.Add some flash by building a frame with 2-by-2- or 2-by-4-inch uprights spaced 1 foot apart, then weaving aluminum flashing between the uprights. 


What else: Make sure to position your privacy screen where you’ll get maximum benefit. Sit on your deck and check your lines of sight. 


4. Paint a faux floor rug on your decking


Punch up a boring old deck with a faux rug. This is a fairly low-cost project with a big wow factor, and one you can share making with your (well-behaved) kids. It works best on a newly cleaned deck (see below.)Cost: Most of your cost will be deck stain or paint in various colors. Because you won’t be using that much stain per color, you can buy quarts. Figure $15-$20 per quart. How-to: Figure out a size, sketch out the design on your decking, and then all you have to do is paint or stain between the lines. You can use painter’s tape as a guide, but a little leakage is likely on a wood decking surface.


What else: Keep a few basic cleaning supplies on hand for any drips or spills. After the stain is dry, coat the entire deck with a clear deck sealer. 


5. Wash and refinish your wood decking


The ultimate deck makeover is none other than a good cleaning. Applying a coat of deck sealant afterwards ensures your wood decking looks great and will last for decades.Cost: There are many brands of deck cleaning and brightening solutions. Some require the deck to be wet; others need the decking to be dry. Some are harmful to plants and you’ll have to use plastic sheeting to protect your landscaping. Consult the instructions carefully. You’ll pay $15-$25 per gallon, enough to clean 300 sq. ft. of decking.How-to: Scrubbing with a good cleaning solution and rinsing with a garden hose is more foolproof than scouring your decking with a power washer that may damage the surface of the wood. What else: After you deck is cleaned, apply a coat of deck stain or clear finish. The sealer wards off dirt, wear, and UV rays, and helps prevent deck splinters. A gallon covers 250-350 sq. ft., $20-$35/gal. 


 Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®." www.HouseLogic.com


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 




 


 
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            <pubDate>Thu, 25 Apr 2013 15:48:58 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/low-voc-paint-protects-health-pocketbook.html</guid>
            <link>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/low-voc-paint-protects-health-pocketbook.html</link>
            <author>info@alexanderchandler.com (Alexander Chandler)</author>
            <title>Low-VOC Paint Protects Health, Pocketbook</title>
            <description> <![CDATA[ 
Low-VOC Paint Protects Health, Pocketbook


By: Joseph D'Agnese 


Published: October 13, 2010 




Low-VOC paints are kind to your health, and they won't break the bank, either. Learn more about these eco-friendly ways to brighten a room. 


VOCs health hazards 


Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are solids and liquids that convert easily to gas or vapor at room temperature. VOCs are contained in many paint products and have been linked to a variety of health problems--watery eyes, headaches, asthma, respiratory diseases and cancer. 


Common paint VOCs 


Common VOCs in paint include ethylene glycol (the same chemical compound found in antifreeze), formaldehyde, benzene, and a variety of other flammable or toxic chemicals. The paint’s materials safety data sheet (MSDS) lists the hazardous materials the product contains. Laminated MSDS sheets are usually displayed in paint stores, or you can download them from a paint manufacturer’s website. 


VOC regulations 


Current EPA regulations limit VOCs to 250 grams/liter in latex paint, and 380 grams/liter in oil-based paint. Low-VOC paints, now available from most major manufacturers, clock in at less than 50 grams/liter in flat paints, and 150 grams/liter in gloss paints. Some go even lower, hitting 25- or even 10-gram/liter benchmarks. 


A paint that has 5 grams or less/liter can claim “zero-VOC” status. 


Low-VOC price 


Painters shy away from low-VOC paint, thinking it’s more expensive than the stuff that’s hazardous to their health. In fact, low-VOC and zero-VOC paint are comparable in price to any paint that’s comparable in coverage. 


Price is determined by how much bang you get from a gallon. Benjamin Moore’s zero-VOC Aura paint sells for almost $60 per gallon, not because it’s zero VOC, but because it is self-priming and requires only two coats to cover a room. Benjamin Moore’s low-VOC line, Ben, costs about $35 per gallon, comparable to other VOC-laden premium paints. 


Tints and VOCs 


Even if you buy low-VOC paint, you can unwittingly raise toxic levels by adding tints tainted with VOCs. Low-VOC tints are available, so ask for them when lightening or darkening paint. 


 Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®." www.HouseLogic.com


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 




 


 
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            <pubDate>Mon, 15 Apr 2013 15:37:15 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/newer-homes-vs-older-homes.html</guid>
            <link>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/newer-homes-vs-older-homes.html</link>
            <author>info@alexanderchandler.com (Alexander Chandler)</author>
            <title>Newer Homes vs Older Homes</title>
            <description> <![CDATA[  

According to NAHB's (National Association of Home Builders) recent study using data from the U.S. Census Bureau and the Department of Housing and Urban Development's 2011 American Housing Survey, homebuyers can purchase a more expensive, newer home and have the same annual operating costs as a less expensive, older home. 


 The study found that homes built before 1960 have an average maintenance cost of $564 a year while a home built after 2008 has an average yearly maintenance cost of $241. And when it comes to operating costs, newer construction averages less than 3% of a home's value while an older home's operating costs averages nearly 5% of a home's value. 


 NAHB's study says that although mortgage payments are more expensive for a higher-price new home, the lower operating costs means a buyer will have the same kind of annual costs as a lower-price, older home with a lower mortgage payment but greater operating expenses. 


 


 


 


 
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            <pubDate>Fri, 12 Apr 2013 15:41:54 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/property-zoning-laws-for-a-workshop-or-studio.html</guid>
            <link>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/property-zoning-laws-for-a-workshop-or-studio.html</link>
            <author>info@alexanderchandler.com (Alexander Chandler)</author>
            <title>Property Zoning Laws for a Workshop or Studio</title>
            <description> <![CDATA[ 
Property Zoning Laws for a Workshop or Studio


By: Dave Toht 


Published: April 27, 2010 




Check local zoning laws, ordinances, building codes, and covenants before adding a workshop or studio to your property. 


Typical zoning ordinances 


Zoning ordinances vary by locale, but in general they exist to keep your new structure from adversely affecting quality of life and real estate values in your neighborhood. Zoning ordinances affecting a backyard structure boil down to these essentials: 




Setbacks are the required buffers (typically about 12 feet) between your structure and your neighbors’ lot lines. They also specify at least 20 feet of front yard and 25 feet of backyard.






Lot coverage (sometimes referred to as Lot Coverage Ratio or LCR) is the allowable percentage of your lot occupied by structures and paving. Most municipalities want at least half the lot to be open space. Larger lots face more severe restrictions to avoid the look of a high-density compound. In Arlington, Va., for example, a half-acre lot is restricted to an LCR of only 33%.






Easements protect access pathways for utilities, but they may also include public access to a beach or a neighbor’s right to share your driveway.




Wanda Edwards, a practicing structural engineer and Director of Building Code Development for the Institute for Business &amp; Home Safety, recommends tackling potential zoning problems early. “Before you begin with any design, sit down with the local zoning official,” she advises. “Discuss what you are going to do and be sure that what you are planning will not violate any zoning ordinances.” 


Codes and restrictions 


Building codes that govern the construction of new homes and remodeling projects apply to backyard structures as well. The codes ensure that your building won’t collapse under snow load, sink into the ground because of an inadequate footing, or burst into flame due to an electrical fault.“Their purpose is to protect the health, safety, and welfare of the public,” says Edwards.Codes vary according to locale, mainly because regional differences (low temperatures, hurricanes, earthquakes) put different demands on a building. Codes also reflect local preferences for certain types of materials. For example, some areas allow flexible plastic piping for water lines, some insist on copper pipe.Other types restrictions may affect placing a separate studio or workshop on your property. “It’s not just zoning and codes that you need to take into consideration,” Edwards points out. “Subdivisions or neighborhoods might have restricted covenants as well.”Also known as Deed Restrictions, these rules will have been filed with your deed. They can even stretch to aesthetic concerns. “A lot of times there is an architectural board,” notes Edwards. “They want to see what it’s going to look like.” For example, the restrictions may dictate the type and color of materials, such as siding and roofing. 


Obtaining a building permit (and what happens if you don’t) 


Check with your city or county building department for information about obtaining a permit for your studio or workshop. Often, they will have essential information on their web site, along with downloadable application forms. Permit costs vary. Some begin with a modest fee of $50 or so for the first $1,000 of valuation, and then an additional $7 per $1,000 of valuation. Others are based on square footage. Figured either way, the fee for a 400 sq. ft. structure costing $33,000 to construct averages about $275.If your structure requires something unusual, such as foundation piers to cope with a steep slope, you may need your plans reviewed and approved by a structural engineer before you can obtain a permit. Expect to pay $300 to $500 for the services of a structural engineer.After obtaining a permit, your project will be reviewed on-site by a building inspector. The inspector checks critical items, such as the foundation, framing, wiring, and plumbing, to make sure they comply with building codes. In addition, many municipalities check insulation and energy conservation measures. When signing off on completed work, the inspector will list items to be corrected before the next inspection.Despite the fairly modest fee, some homeowners skip taking out a permit. The risk is hardly worth it. If you later put your house on the market and the prospective owner spots something that’s not to code, you may be required to make a repair that will cost much more than if the job had been done correctly from the start.If the wiring and plumbing were not inspected, you may have to provide a clear look by pulling out obstructing drywall. Or worse. “An inspector will try to work with you, but he has the authority to make you tear down the structure,” warns Edwards. 


Property assessments, taxes, and insurance 


When you take out a building permit, your tax assessor is cued to your property’s increased value. Typically, the tax increase is a set amount multiplied by the square footage of your new studio or workshop, allowing you to estimate your tax increase in advance. 


Your building as a place of business 


 If your business is simply you, a computer, and an occasional client dropping by, your separate structure will likely fall under residential--not business--zoning laws. However, if you have several employees and a stream of customers, you may run afoul of zoning laws that restrict commerce in residential areas. Your option is to apply for a variance that grants you exemption from the laws based on your circumstances.Should zoning laws permit you to use your new studio or workshop as a place of business, brace yourself for some demanding code requirements. Now that you’re inviting the public in, expect to provide things like more than one exit, a fire lane, restroom facilities, and adequate parking. 


Potential payback 


 Although you may be building the ceramics studio or furniture-making shop of your dreams, it probably won’t add appreciable value to your property.“We struggle with those outbuildings from an appraisal standpoint,” says Bryan Flaherty, an appraiser in Missoula, Mont. “The classic example is somebody who likes to rebuild cars and they build a separate shop on their property in a residential zone. They’ll end up investing $25,000 to $50,000 in that shop building.”They typically won’t get their investment back, says Flaherty. “People buy the house first as a place to live. The incidental buildings are secondary. Normally they’ll contribute less than the cost value.” 


 Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®." www.HouseLogic.com


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 




 


 
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            <pubDate>Fri, 05 Apr 2013 09:16:20 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/5-great-gardening-apps.html</guid>
            <link>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/5-great-gardening-apps.html</link>
            <author>info@alexanderchandler.com (Alexander Chandler)</author>
            <title>5 Great Gardening Apps</title>
            <description> <![CDATA[ 
  Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®." www.HouseLogic.com. 


5 Great Gardening Apps


By: Lisa Kaplan Gordon 


Published: April 11, 2012 




These apps take the guesswork out of gardening. All you have to do is dig. 


 


Let’s just agree there’s an app for everything, and gardening is no exception. I tried out a number of apps for the iPhone (though some of these have Android versions) and picked a few that will help your garden grow.1. Food Gardening Guide (free for iPhone, iPad, Android): Mother Earth News has produced this delightful and comprehensive guide on how to grow your own food. Chapters are titled “All About Growing (whatever),” and they deliver info on planting, harvesting and storage, saving seeds, pest and disease prevention, growing, and kitchen prep. For instance, did you know you can harvest carrots, store them over the winter, and replant in spring to generate seeds? Now you do. 


 


 


 


2. Landscaper’s Companion ($5.99 iPhone, iPad; $4.99 Android): This is a planting reference for just about anything you can stick into soil — trees, shrubs, annuals, perennials, bulbs, and on and on. For each species, the app provides its growing zone, watering and sun needs, height, width, and bloom time -- plus a pretty picture. You can also scroll through images, pick a plant that sparks your interest, and then research it. 


 


 


 


3. Garden ID (free for iPhone, iPad): A personal gardening guru that customizes information for your particular slice of heaven. Allow the app to use your current location, and it suggests fruits, vegetables, and herbs that can thrive in your edible garden anytime, and even varieties you can plant now. Select a veggie, and Garden ID gives you planting, growing, and harvesting tips. As a bonus, it also names plants that like to grow together, like corn that shades lettuce, giving it a longer growing season. You'll also learn which plants don’t get along, like cauliflower and tomatoes. 


 


 


 


4. Garden Tracker (99 cents for iPhone, $3.99 for iPad): A digital gardening journal that helps you keep track of what you planted where, when you watered and fertilized each plant, and days until harvest. It also gives info on sunrise, moon phases, and USDA Hardiness Zones. It’s a great planning tool for square or rectangular plots and beds, because it lays out plants in a grid. 


 


 


 


5. Home Outside ($1.99 for iPhone, iPad): Home Outside lets you dream up out-of-the-box landscaping not limited to rectangular plots. You can arrange trees, gardens, patios, hammocks, even driveways. Don’t like the way it looks? Move, rotate, scale up and down until your landscape design looks just right. 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 


 




 


 
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            <pubDate>Mon, 01 Apr 2013 11:46:33 -0500</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/how-to-pick-paint-colors.html</guid>
            <link>http://www.alexanderchandler.com/blog/how-to-pick-paint-colors.html</link>
            <author>info@alexanderchandler.com (Alexander Chandler)</author>
            <title>How to Pick Paint Colors</title>
            <description> <![CDATA[ 
How to Pick Paint Colors


By: Jan Soults Walker 


Published: December 17, 2012 




Paint has remodeling power when you use it to emphasize a room’s best features or play down the flaws. 


 


“Paint is a powerful tool that can enhance the architectural character and intent of space,” says Minneapolis architect Petra Schwartze of TEA2 Architects. “As you choose your paint, think about what the experience in the room should be.”More Schwartze advice: 




Always sample paint colors on a few walls. Don’t be shy about painting a few large swaths on walls and trim to consider the effect of natural and artificial lighting. Add samples to opposite sides of a room to judge the paint color from different angles.






Check the space with the samples in place and watch how the paint color changes at different times of the day. 






Evaluate your reaction to the proposed colors: Does the space feel cozy or is the openness enhanced?




How to enlarge space with colorPainting walls white, cream, pastels, or cool colors (tinged with blue or green) creates the illusion of more space by reflecting light. Paint trim similar to walls (or use white on trim) to ensure a seamless appearance that visually expands space. White or light colors lift a ceiling; darker shades can have a similar effect if you select a high-gloss paint sheen, which reflects light and enhances space. Employ a monochromatic scheme to amplify the dimensions of a room. Select furnishings in one color and paint walls and trim to match. Lack of contrast makes a room seem more spacious.Make walls appear taller by extending wall color onto the ceiling. Create a 6- to 12-inch-wide border of wall color on the entire ceiling perimeter, or wherever walls meet the ceiling.    Vertical and horizontal stripes of alternating color can make a room grand. While vertical stripes enhance room height by drawing the eye upward, horizontal stripes lure your gaze around the perimeter, making walls seem further away. Use similar light colors for low-contrast stripes, and your room will look even larger.Creating intimacyWhen a space feels cavernous, draw walls inward and make it cozy with warm colors (red-tinged) because darker hues absorb light. Similarly, a dark or warm color overhead (in a flat finish) helps make rooms with high or vaulted ceilings less voluminous. Give peace a chanceThe right paint choice can lend tranquility to a bathroom, master suite, or other quiet, personal space. A palette of soft, understated color or muted tones help you instill a calming atmosphere. Some good choices include pale lavenders, light grays or greens, and wispy blues. Define your assetsCall out notable features in a room with paint. Dress crown mouldings and other trims in white to make them pop against walls with color. Make a fireplace or other feature a focal point by painting it a color that contrasts with walls. “Using a higher sheen of paint on woodwork, such as baseboards and door or window casings,” says Schwartze, “creates a crisp edge and clear transition from the wall to the trim.”Hide flawsNot everything should stand out in a space. Using a low-contrast palette is a good way to hide unappealing elements or flaws. Conduit, radiators, and other components painted the same color as the wall will seem to disappear.    Selecting low-sheen or flat paint colors also helps hide flaws. Unless walls are smooth, avoid using high-gloss paint because it reflects light and calls attention to an uneven surface.What’s the cost?As a DIY job, painting a 12-by-12-ft. space costs about $150, including paint, primer, brushes, drop cloths, and other painting tools and supplies. A professionally painted room using high-quality, brand-name paint costs $200-$400. 


  Visit HouseLogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®." www.HouseLogic.com. 


 


 


 


 


 




 


 
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            <pubDate>Tue, 26 Mar 2013 09:57:06 -0500</pubDate>
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